On Saturday 24th January 2009, the first day I arrived Iraq from East Turkey, 12 civilian were reported dead due to different violent events including roadside bombs in Baghdad, Garma and Mosul. In Hawija, Dhiya and Fathiya Ali, who were husband and wife as well as parents of of 5 children, were killed in their bed by the US forces. Iraq, is undoubtedly one of the most dangerous places in the world. For those solo travelers heading to this country, advice provided by Lonely Planet is: “You would have to be mad.”

Iraq (Arabic: العراق), officially the Republic of Iraq (Arabic: جمهورية العراق, Kurdish: كۆماری عێراق‎, Komara Iraqê), is a country in Western Asia spanning most of the northwestern end of the Zagros mountain range, the ern part of the Syrian Desert and the northern part of the Arabian Desert. It shares borders with Kuwait and Saudi Arabia to the south, Jordan to the west, Syria to the northwest, Turkey to the north, and Iran to the east. Official languages: Arabic, Kurdish Area: 438,317 km2 Population: 29,267,0004 (2007 estimate)

On March 20, 2003, a United States- organized coalition invaded Iraq, with the stated reason that Iraq had failed to abandon its nuclear and chemical weapons development program in violation of U.N. Resolution 687. The United States further justified the invasion by claiming that Iraq had or was developing weapons of mass destruction and stating a desire to remove an oppressive dictator from power and bring democracy to Iraq. President George W. Bush declared that Iraq was a member of the "Axis of Evil", and that, like North Korea and Iran, Iraq's attempt to acquire weapons of mass destruction posed a serious threat to national security or the United States.

Referring to the statistics provided by Iraq Body Count (IBC), the six week “Shock and Awe” invasion phase (March 19 - May 1, 2003), which alone caused the deaths of some 7,400 civilians. During the last five years, Iraq has seen a particularly marked increase in mortar attacks, suicide car and roadside bombing attacks, and massive incidents that kill more than 50 people. In 2008, there were 24 deaths per day from suicide attacks, vehicle bombs, gunfire and/or executions. People are killed in Iraq everyday, with or without a good reason.

The project Iraq Body Count (IBC) records violent civilian deaths that have resulted from the 2003 military intervention in Iraq. Its public database includes deaths caused by US-led coalition forces and paramilitary or criminal attacks by others. Documentary evidence of IBC is drawn from crosschecked media reports of violent events leading to the death of civilians, or of bodies being found, and is supplemented by the careful review and integration of hospital, morgue, NGO and official figures.

Traveling to Iraq sounds impossible and indeed ridiculous to most people. However, I did found it rewarding and insightful after this intimate encounter. Entering northern Iraq from the East Turkey might be way more easier than you could have imagine. Nevertheless, as the threat to travelers remains extremely high, it is NOT recommended to give a try, unless you are extraordinarily interested and very well-prepared. Packing up to go Iraq should NEVER be a playful and unprepared decision. Without serious investigation of the most up-to-date situation as well as a comprehensive planning, Iraq could easily be your final destination.

Iraqi Kurdistan Region borders Iran to the east, Turkey to the north, and Syria to the west and the rest of Iraq to the South. Its capital is the city of Erbil, known in Kurdish as Hewlêr. This region has enormous sources of power, especially oil. The Kurdistan Regional Government were formed based on a March 1970 autonomy agreement with the Iraqi government. Iraqi embassies overseas are extremely reluctant to issue visas to anyone other than journalists, aid workers and businessman. Since I belong to none of the above, I was told to apply for a Visa through Iraqi embassy in Beijing prior to departure. However, I did not refer to the advices given by the embassy, as usual.

The most possible way to enter Iraq is entering overland through Turkey. I took a domestic flight from Istanbul Ataturk Airport to Diyarbakir, which has a small but delicate military airport for travelers. Upon arrival, another journey of 4-hour drive led me to another city, Cizre, in Turkey. After that, I was in a shared taxi with other Iraqis heading to the Ibrahim Khalil border crossing point. My occupation as a social worker might help a little bit while I was trying to cross the border. I had prepared different appealing but untrue stories beforehand in case I was refused to enter Iraq in any circumstances.

A ten-day visa was eventually granted to me without any hesitation. Then I hired another private car with some Iraqis and asked the driver took us all the way to Erbil. 5 hours later, I arrived at the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan Region, my watch reminded me that it was already eight o’clock in the evening. YES, I was in Iraq, alone, at night, without knowing where to stay. I hopped on a random taxi and asked the driver to drop me off at any hotel or hostel, by all means in gesture, instead of proper conversion in English. Erbil is just one hour from Mosul and three hours from Baghadad. Without joking, roadside bomb kills one civilian in Mosul and one policeman in Baghdad at the same day. Totally 40 were found killed during that week. Iraq remains volatile, unpredictable and dangerous. Security checkpoints are everywhere, soldiers on the street are used to carry guns with them, travelers are scattered. When I was standing under the roadside to Baghadad, I felt like I was so closed to heaven, or hell. It should be the craziest and most insane travel decision I have ever made.

Islam is a monotheistic, Abrahamic religion originating with the teachings of the Islamic prophet Muhammad, a 7th century Arab religious and political figure. The word Islam means "submission", or the total surrender of oneself to Allāh. Five Pillars of Islam is the term given to the five duties incumbent on every Muslim. These duties are Shahada (Profession of Faith), Salah (Prayers), Zakat (Giving of Alms), Sawm (Fasting during Ramadan) and Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca). Islamic songs are broadcasted on the street every early morning in Iraq, to remind you about Allha and to wake everyone up.

I was told that life in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq is more preferable than other parts of the country. In fact, people have normal lives here. They work, they play, they eat, they laugh, they cry, they worship, they love, as usual. Of course, they can hardly figure out the reasons for me to travel Iraq. And I always found myself as the only tourist wherever I went to. On the street, I was heavily pictured by Iraqis, using the camera of mobile phones. Even more than I pictured them.

I cherish the opportunity very much of being a tourist on the "Axis of Evil" As Tony Wheeler asked in his book "Bad Lands", which is a famous bible for hardcore travelers who are unusually interested in visiting the Bad Lands, "What makes a country truly evil?" and "How bad is really bad? " Should you please have your unique answer in mind.

Iraq 2009

Photo & Text: Sing Cheung

Contact Email: jur@netvigator.com

Website: https://www.fotop.net/jur